Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Prague Vol. 2: Tough Love

So there was a very large man wielding a massive two - handed club made of bronze, with his right foot firmly planted on the back of another and the club frozen in place ready to come crashing down with unbridled fury. Though it was only a statue, the image was a little unsettling. On the other side of the gate was another man, this time wielding a knife, holding it high over his head in the moment just before plunging it down into the back of another lying prostrate. These are the statues at the entrance to Prague castle and along with dramatic poses of the figures along Charles Bridge, and the gargoyles on the outside of St. Vitus Cathedral we came to the conclusion that the builders of Prague didn't have much in the way of a subtlety.

To begin, all of the ornate and old cathedrals and towers we saw in Prague were made of this dark, smoke-colored stone. Along with this dramatic color were spikes and spires that jutted into the sky with barbed intensity that gave us a distinct feeling of awe, inspired not only by beauty (these things were truly beautiful), but more by the violent drama they seemed to represent. The best example is the massive St. Vitus Cathedral in the middle of Prague castle. It can be seen from many miles away from almost every point of the city (and even the suburbs), huge and glorious on top of the mountain. But as you come closer, you begin to see that the ornate edges from afar begin to separate revealing a jagged, spiny and almost machine-like exterior. Dangling from the edges of these spines and barbs are the open mouthed figures that I can only describe as gargoyles, that don't inspire one to necessarily draw near so much as to be wary.

Upon entering the cathedral we were struck with how bare it was (compared to others in the city and those we saw in Bruges). The message of salvation was portayed in the paintings, stained glass and mosaics on the walls. For me, it seemed to clash with the jagged and ostentatious exterior. But after some discussion we came to the conclusion that in Prague they didn't take religion lightly. Shape up, or we will shape you up. No warm fuzzies - a club, a knife and a church. It's called tough love.







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